Sewing the Daria Patternmaking Rose Cafe Bustier Dress




For this project I used a deadstock metallic blue tweed that I picked up from the The Sewing Studio and the Daria Patternmaking Rose Cafe Bustier Dress pattern.
In terms of structure, this pattern offered detailed instruction and technique to allow for a soft structured bodice. The updated pattern includes details for added boning channels and instructions for a finished top without the skirt.
I opted for the unstructured version which was awesome for the Florida heat and casual comfort, however adding a layer of bra foam in the cups and bones in the bodice would have been a nice addition for the life of this garment.
Unfortunately, the lack of structure in my dress and a choice of a fiddly chiffon lining led to some weak areas in some of the seams. My goal is to remake the dress in two different versions learn more about the fitting and fabric choice challenges I encountered in this version.
The first remake will be made in a stretch woven fabric with fixed adjustable straps. I will also add bra foam, and boning. Also, I plan to alter the skirt to be a midi-length fitted version with a peplum at the bottom. A skinny belt in a matching fabric and small buckle will go nicely with this silhouette.
The second will be a summer dress in a red and white woven plaid I already Have on hand from Jo-Ann Fabrics. I plan to add a midi-length circle skirt with a second tier and again use added bra foam and boning. Check out this playful mini from Oscar De La Renta which serves as an inspiration for the skirt.

I will be sure to update you here as I dive into these new projects.
If you would like to check out some of my other dress pattern tutorials or pattern review, check out these posts:
An Easy Night Out in the Sewing Masin Sicily Slip Dress
DIY: How to clone your favorite bodycon Dress in under a hour
What are some of your sewing challenges? Thank you for reading!
– Sydnye